The story of Glashütte Original this year is all about Calibre 36 and it is certainly true that it is the beginning of a new story for the Saxon watchmaker. The Senator Excellence is at the heart of it but BaselWorld this year also showed us a hint of where the watchmaker intends to take this tale. Behold the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase, a chapter devoted to complexity made simple.
Well, to begin with, those familiar with moon phases will know all the usual stuff: it will be accurate for 122 years before it needs to be adjusted. Stellar stuff that is but the simplicity we seek lies in the operation of this adjustment. Again, those familiar with the moon phase, or own a watch with this charming complication, will know that there is a circumstance that will require manual intervention. If the watch stops for a prolonged period, it will need to be reset and, when it comes to the moon phase, that can be tedious. Not so for the Panorama Date Moon Phase.
From winding the watch to the setting of time, from changing the date to setting the moon phase, everything can be managed via the crown. When one pulls the crown out to position one, Calibre 36-04, can be wound. Position two allows the setting of both date and moon phase indicator, tied as they are to each other. Finally, position three allows the setting of time. Of course, the fact that the power reserve is rated to 100 hours also helps keep the pressure off. That, to keep it brief, takes care of the main message of simplicity.
On the other hand, it is not only practically speaking that the watch offers advantages. A watch is something one wears and interacts with almost intuitively. Using a pusher to correct the moon phase gives one a feeling of being disconnected from this most personal of treasures. Glashütte Original corrects that defect with the Panorama Date Moon Phase.
Of course, this implies there is a great deal of complexity involved with what the Swatch Group-owned firm is doing with the automatic Calibre 36-04. Like Calibre 36, we know for certain it is using a silicium hairspring, a free-spring balance and a movement architecture aimed at solving technical issues down the line, including making servicing easier. All of these moves bring the German manufacture in-line with the practices of its parent group and have been a long time coming.
What hasn’t changed is the Glashütte Original look and feel, as seen in the double disc date display – pleasantly oversized as usual – and the off-kilter positioning of both the date and the moon phase indicator. Combined with the central hands and sweep seconds, the result is an admirably well-balanced 40mm watch.
- Dimensions: 40mm
- Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, moon phase
- Power Reserve: 100 hours
- Movement: Automatic Calibre 36-04 with date and moon phase
- Material: Stainless steel or rose gold
- Water resistance: 50 meters
- Strap: Louisiana alligator or bracelet (stainless steel version)