{"id":67523,"date":"2019-06-03T17:07:03","date_gmt":"2019-06-03T21:07:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/thatdope.com\/style\/aalto-showcases-helsinkis-fashion-potential\/"},"modified":"2019-06-03T17:07:03","modified_gmt":"2019-06-03T21:07:03","slug":"aalto-showcases-helsinkis-fashion-potential","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thatdope.com\/style\/aalto-showcases-helsinkis-fashion-potential\/","title":{"rendered":"Aalto Showcases Helsinki’s Fashion Potential"},"content":{"rendered":"

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There\u2019s a Finnish invasion taking over fashion. But it\u2019s a quiet, behind-the-scenes kind of invasion. \u201cWe have alumni in practically every house in Paris,\u201d says Tuomas Laitinen, senior lecturer at Helsinki\u2019s Aalto University.<\/p>\n

The nexus of Helsinki\u2019s fashion industry is not a traditional fashion week like in other European cities \u2014 it\u2019s N\u00e4yt\u00f6s, Aalto\u2019s end of year runway show for its graduating Bachelor\u2019s and Master\u2019s fashion students. Laitinen oversees each year\u2019s show, and in the past 10 years he\u2019s observed the school\u2019s profile slowly rise throughout Europe and beyond. Thanks to the fact that many of its graduates have won awards from Festival d\u2019Hy\u00e8res and the LVMH Prize<\/a>, N\u00e4yt\u00f6s is nowadays a hot ticket not just for locals in the fashion industry, but headhunters from LVMH<\/a> and Kering<\/a> looking for new talent. It\u2019s no surprise then that Aalto topped Business of Fashion<\/em>\u2019s list of best fashion schools for 2019<\/a>. <\/p>\n

That\u2019s certainly a boon for those who graduate from the elite university, but it also presents a challenge for Finland\u2019s fashion industry \u2013 as headhunters look to poach interns for brands like Saint Laurent<\/a> and Rick Owens<\/a>, much of Finland\u2019s young talent leaves to find success. Finland is frequently compared to its neighboring Sweden, but while the former may have Aalto\u2019s reputation, the latter has the financial backbone to support an industry.<\/p>\n

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Backstage at N\u00e4yt\u00f6s19<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s not really an industry in Finland. In Sweden there is, it\u2019s not a high fashion industry. It\u2019s a commercial, high street industry,\u201d Laitinen says. \u201cAll that is very commercial, mid-market. There\u2019s nothing wrong with that, but it\u2019s not fashion, it\u2019s garments.\u201d<\/p>\n

The local industry is growing though, albeit slowly. Finland is best known for the groundbreaking fashions of Marimekko<\/a> in the 1960s, but Laitinen says the industry remained relatively quiet for 50 years. \u201cIt really had an impact,\u201d he says of Marimekko. \u201cBut since that there hasn\u2019t really been anything, until 10 years ago.\u201d Nowadays there are burgeoning designers like Rolf Ekroth<\/a>, an Aalto graduate who has received financial backing to run both his namesake label and revive Finnish brand Terinit<\/a>. That is a recent, but welcome, change, Laitinen says. \u201cThere will be more hopefully cases like Rolf\u2019s. And that might be a birth of an industry or a proper let\u2019s say fashion scene,\u201d he adds.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe have alumni in practically every house in Paris.\u201d<\/q><\/p>\n

But Aalto remains at the center. A sort of pseudo-fashion week, known as Fashion in Helsinki, has sprung up around N\u00e4yt\u00f6s to harness its hype, with international press descending on Helsinki for lectures, events and of course the final graduate show. This year\u2019s lineup brought out international stylists, editors, and designers to not only attend N\u00e4yt\u00f6s but also participate in lectures on the state of the fashion industry and visit events highlighting up-and-coming Helsinki brands like Nomen Nescio<\/a>, ensaemble<\/a> and Mannisto<\/a>. That editors and stylists from around the world have eyes on Helsinki gives hope to young graduates that going abroad isn\u2019t the only option.<\/p>\n

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Moodboards from N\u00e4yt\u00f6s19 participants<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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\u201cI think that I previously thought that\u2019s what you should be doing, but now. Of course that\u2019s one way to do it, but I don\u2019t see it as the only path or one to become better,\u201d says Emma Saarnio, an Aalto graduate. Though she herself will soon begin an internship at Louis Vuitton<\/a>, she notes that those who stay in Finland may have an advantage in not having to learn the workings of a foreign industry. And though Finland lacks the apparel manufacturing industry found in Italy or France, factories can be found just across the water in countries like Estonia.<\/p>\n

Helsinki\u2019s profile may be growing, but developing an industry on the level of Sweden or Italy is no small task. For Finnish designer Heikki Salonen, who lectures at London\u2019s Royal College of Art<\/a> and acts as MM6<\/a>\u2019s design director, going abroad to the fashion capitals is simply part of the deal, even as homegrown comforts may be hard to give up. \u201cI think it\u2019s very easy here. It\u2019s made really for us in Finland. I think that\u2019s part of the problem in a way.\u201d The country was recently named the happiest country in the world<\/a> after all.<\/p>\n

However, it\u2019s not just fashion, but many Finnish creatives who are obligated to go abroad. \u201cAll the Finns are famous for like techno music. And electronic music. They all live in Berlin, cause that\u2019s where it\u2019s happening,\u201d says Salonen. It\u2019s just part of the reality, one that all small countries face compared to their cultural powerhouse neighbors<\/p>\n

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Pop-up presentations from Mannisto and Nomen Nescio<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Pop-up presentations from Mannisto and Nomen Nescio<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Some designers however find Finland\u2019s low profile to be a feature, not a bug. Born in Colombia to a Finnish-Colombian family, Mannisto designer Julia M\u00e4nnist\u00f6 grew up in Helsinki and received her Bachelor\u2019s from Aalto before moving to London to pursue her Master\u2019s at Central Saint Martins<\/a>. She began her brand in 2015 and has seen interest in the Finnish fashion scene change significantly; when she graduated from Aalto, M\u00e4nnist\u00f6 says she and her colleagues were worried they\u2019d have to put mannequins in the seats to make it look full enough. \u201cAnd now it\u2019s like sold in one and a half hour. It\u2019s crazy. I\u2019m like, who is buying these tickets?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cIn here it\u2019s still so baby. We can just do whatever nonsense.\u201d <\/q><\/p>\n

M\u00e4nnist\u00f6 says she left London for the simple fact that she ran out of money, but today she\u2019s found that the small scale of Finland\u2019s industry gives her more chances to experiment. In fact, the designer has chosen to live in the smaller city of Turku rather than Helsinki itself. \u201cIn here it\u2019s still so baby. We can just do whatever nonsense,\u201d she says. \u201cWhen I see things happening in London and all that, it\u2019s like, jeez.\u201d<\/p>\n

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N\u00e4yt\u00f6s19\/Courtesty of Fashion in Helsinki<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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N\u00e4yt\u00f6s19\/Courtesty of Fashion in Helsinki<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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N\u00e4yt\u00f6s19\/Courtesty of Fashion in Helsinki<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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N\u00e4yt\u00f6s19\/Courtesty of Fashion in Helsinki<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

So, which names from this year\u2019s N\u00e4yt\u00f6s should you look for to follow in the footsteps of Julia M\u00e4nnist\u00f6 and Rolf Ekroth? Keep your eyes peeled for Ines Kallaila, whom Marni<\/a> creative director Francesco Risso, Vogue<\/em> editor Laird Borrelli-Persson, Director of Palais Galliera Miren Arzalluz and PHIPPS<\/a> designer Spencer Phipps recognized with this year\u2019s N\u00e4yt\u00f6s19 Award. Or for Justus Kantakoski, who scooped up the Diesel Prize. Designers such as Amanda Ripatti and Heidi Karjalainen showed great knack for color and volume. Others showed the power of collaboration, such as Elina Heilanen, Aleksandra Hellberg, Camilla Naukkarinen and Noora Vihervit, whose group collection earned the Marimekko Prize.<\/p>\n

And perhaps current and future Aalto graduates won\u2019t need to choose between going abroad and staying home \u2013 as M\u00e4nnist\u00f6 has found, building a brand in Finland doesn\u2019t have to mean remaining isolated. The designer is currently collaborating with Finnish workwear brand Lindstr\u00f6m on creating upcycled apparel, but she\u2019s also hoping to return to Colombia to work with the country\u2019s textile producers and artisans. \u201cFor a while I will be in here and I will suck in again all this kind of like weirdness from Finland, and then I will again go abroad,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

Wherever this year\u2019s crop of graduates end up, the global fashion world will certainly benefit from their talent.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

Source link <\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

There\u2019s a Finnish invasion taking over fashion. But it\u2019s a quiet, behind-the-scenes kind of invasion. \u201cWe have alumni in practically every house in Paris,\u201d says Tuomas Laitinen, senior lecturer at Helsinki\u2019s Aalto University. The nexus of Helsinki\u2019s fashion industry is not a traditional fashion week like in other European cities \u2014 it\u2019s N\u00e4yt\u00f6s, Aalto\u2019s end of year runway show for its graduating Bachelor\u2019s and Master\u2019s fashion students. Laitinen oversees each year\u2019s show, and in the past 10 years he\u2019s observed […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[11],"tags":[16,176],"yoast_head":"\nAalto Showcases Helsinki's Fashion Potential<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"There\u2019s a Finnish invasion taking over fashion. 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