With the Fall/Winter 2020 runway only just completed, we now have detailed imagery of the new goods imagined by Dior men’s creative director Kim Jones. Plenty of thematic jewelry, accessories, bags and footwear was crafted for the new range, all indebted to the legacy of influential stylist and artist Judy Blame.
“We really focused on the tailoring and the know-how of Dior, it’s a completely different style than what we presented in Miami,” Jones explained to HYPEBEAST France.
“It’s not punk, it’s not rock, it’s just London style,” the designer continued, smiling. “For the jewelry, we really relied on Judy’s archives; we didn’t want to copy her work, that’s not how you pay tribute to someone properly. By looking at all the documents that we were given, [we saw that] the safety pin was omnipresent.” Jewelry designer Yoon Ahn added, “We kept this industrial and thorny side of the pin in our jewelry.”
Interestingly, the safety pin also represents a good luck charm worn by Marc Bohan, known for his 30-year tenure as the designer of Dior. “We took a lot of lucky charms, that’s what Judy liked and we put them on scarves,” Jones noted. “We worked closely with Judy’s assistant to really pay homage to his heritage.” This included long gloves with a tonal Dior monogram and inset pearls. “Judy was obsessed with gloves. … How do you incorporate pearls into a men’s fashion show? Very easily. I love jewelry and it’s 2020 — I think people should wear what makes them happy.”
The collection itself is classic Jones: sophisticated yet accessible, clean lines informing the garments and accessories alike; the latter of which range from a grey suede Saddle bag to a furry iteration Dior’s B23 silhouette, all sporting plenty of Dior branding. Blame’s DIY ethos informs the clunky rings, spiked necklaces and bundled brooches, elsewhere lending shine to a tonal black bag and bandana, juxtaposing Blame’s favored safety pins and buttons against padlocks and wrenches.
Elsewhere at Paris Fashion Week, we also visited Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2020 showroom.