London Collections: Men starts today. So before we start posting street style galleries of Lewis Hamilton looking like an extra from Saturday Night Fever, we speak with some of the world’s most influential buyers about what they’re looking out for this season.
We caught up with buyers from Oki-Ni, Browns, Bloomingdales, MR PORTER and Tres Bien to find out just what to look out for at LC:M, London’s creativity/sella-bility balance and much more.
What brands are you most looking forward to this LCM?
Christopher Fisher, Buyer at Oki-Ni: This season the brands that I’m most looking forward to seeing are Matthew Miller, CMMN SWDN, E Tautz and Aitor Throup, who has returned to the LC:M schedule.
Lee Goldup, Menswear Buyer at Browns: In terms of runway shows I’m looking forward to J.W.Anderson, Mihara Yasuhiro and Craig Green, who’s a personal favorite. I’m also very interested to see what the NEWGEN and Fashion East designers are up to.
Sam Lobban, Buyer at MR PORTER: It’s always exciting to see what new designers are doing at London Collections. We’re particularly excited to see Oliver Spencer, who we have stocked and supported on the site since FW11, as well as other contemporary brands such as Folk, Casely-Hayford and Mackintosh, and luxury brands in our formal category such as Thom Sweeney, Turnbull & Asser and Coach.
Justin Berkowitz, Men’s Fashion Director at Bloomingdale’s: Matthew Miller, Hardy Amies, E Tautz and Coach.
How do you think LC:M designers are coping by balancing creativity with sellable garments?
Justin Berkowitz, Bloomingdales: One of the most spectacular things about London is the interesting dichotomy in the city between the rich history of Savile Row and the intense creativity coming out of Central St Martins. The brands I find most compelling all seem to find intersections between the two by presenting a more classic thought (either in shape or menswear fabrication) in a new way that feels fresh and youthful.
Lee Goldup, Browns: As the London Fashion calendar is a lot smaller than in other cities there is a lot more opportunity for young and emerging designers to stand out and make a statement, which is what makes it so interesting here. I still find there is a pretty even balance across the board though in terms of creativity vs. sellability.
Christopher Fisher, Oki-Ni: It’s consistently improving for me. The ranges themselves are always getting stronger and more commercial, this is especially evident when we view the wholesale collections post-show.
Who were you most surprised by last season?
Fisher, Oki-Ni: 1205 I thought was a great menswear presentation! The rich color palette and utilitarian feel really appealed to me.
Berkowitz, Bloomingdales: It’s been fantastic to watch Stuart Vevers continue to re-invent Coach. We are big fans of the collection and continue to enjoy witnessing the evolution.
Goldup, Browns: There weren’t any big surprises for me as such. I did, however, really enjoy the MAN show where I thought that Grace Wales Bonner was a real highlight. I also really enjoyed the Alexander McQueen show and the Tourne De Transmission presentation.
How do you view LCM in comparison to Paris?
Simon Hogeman, Tres Bien: LCM obviously is a lot smaller than Paris. The designers are more up and coming in London so there’s other things you look at and get inspired by. In general the styling, for example, is more progressive and forward-thinking. In addition, it’s cooler how and which models they use. Personally for me I like London because Paris is always crazy with meetings, so in London I actually have time to see things and designers and just be there and get the vibe with a lot less stress.
What cities do you think are breaking out of their reputations?
Goldup, Browns: The obvious one this season is Florence where there are some big changes at Pitti Uomo. Gosha Rubchinskiy, visvim and Raf Simons are very different from the usual sartorial aesthetic.
Hogeman, Tres Bien: To be honest I’m not that into what’s been coming out of Milan the last few years so haven’t really been paying that close attention to what’s happening there specifically. London is more about the young and new and I think they stay quite true to their roots. Paris is still quite conservative even though they’ve let a few outsiders in these past few years. I’m not sure if that answers your question (laughs).
Fisher, Oki-Ni: I haven’t noticed any particular changes with any of the cities I visited recently. That said, new arrivals of creative heads at certain brands has caused a bit of a shake-up!
Berkowitz, Bloomingdales: I think Milan is breaking out of its reputation–especially at Gucci. I also think the reverse is happening in Paris. Over the past couple of years, we’ve seen a number of brands emerge from Paris that have focused on very wearable clothing.
Outside of LC:M, what brands are you particularly excited to see this coming season?
Hogeman, Tres Bien: In Paris, it’s definitely Dries. Always Dries. We don’t buy a lot out of Milan but Jil [Sander] is always interesting to see of course. We’ll go to London to see what our talented friends Emma and Saif of CMMN SWDN have been working on, so we’re excited about that of course.
Fisher, Oki-Ni: In Florence, it’s Gosha Rubchinskiy and Raf Simons. Milan: Neil Barrett and Marni. In Paris, OAMC, Lemaire, Thom Browne, Wooyoungmi and Haider Ackerman. And, finally, in New York, Tim Coppens and Rochambeau.
Goldup, Browns: In Paris – I’m very interested to see Balenciaga’s first-ever men’s runway show. I’m also looking forward to seeing COMME Des GARCONS Homme Plus, Yohji Yamamoto and Our Legacy. In Milan, it’s all about Gucci for me. Alessandro Michele is killin’ it there at the moment!
Berkowitz, Bloomingdales: In city order, it’s E Tautz, Casely Hayford, Matthew Miller, Hardy Amies, Gucci, Neil Barrett, Missoni, Dries van Noten, Junya Watanabe, Lemaire, kolor and Vuitton.
Find out where you should head during LCM, according to the pros.
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Lead Image:
Derrius Pierre